On the eve of the main Thaipusam celebration, Ching Ching and I went to the river bend to watch the devotees prepare to walk barefoot up 272 stairs to the Subramaniar Swamy temple at the top of Batu Caves.  Participants cleansed themselves in the river and some had their heads shaved in tents as an emblem of humility.  Various temples set up stations with images of Hindu deities where offerings such as bananas, coconuts, and milk could be left and archana (prayers) could be conducted.

Offerings-note the Maria brand milk!

Many families hire drummers to play devotional music while they prepare and to accompany them on their journey to the temple.   The rhythm is intended to provide motivation to those carrying kavadis, or “burdens” that represent their reverence for Lord Murugan, up the stairs.  There are many different sizes and styles of kavadis, which may be adorned with peacock feathers, bells, flowers or images of other deities.  The act of carrying the kavadi takes extreme religious commitment and physical endurance.

A huge kavadi reaches its destination.

For myself and other spectators, the most shocking part of the ceremony was the piercing.  The piercings symbolize self-sacrifice and the utmost devotion.  Also, Lord Murugan is praised for defeating several evil demons with a holy spear called a vel, which looks similar to the long metal lances that are used to puncture the cheeks, tongue, and forehead.  Those who desire to be pierced go into a deep trance-like state and do not even wince or bleed when pierced.  It is believed that their unity with Lord Murugan prevents them from feeling any pain.

Being pierced while in a trance.

I had never seen anyone in a trance before or even thought it was possible.  After seeing the transformation, I am a believer!

Similar acts of penance are performed when hooks holding flowers, fruit, or bells are inserted into the backs of devotees.  Again, they show no signs of discomfort.

Hooking fruit into a participant's back...no signs of pain!

While still in the trance, many of the pierced devotees danced in the middle of their drum circles.  Some of them had to be restrained by family members or with chains because they embodied Lord Murugan’s spirit and were acting like wild animals.  When the spirit was released, they achieved calmness.  I witnessed a fellow spectator go into a trance herself and start screaming and rolling on the ground because she had been inhabited by a spirit that was released by a devotee preparing to carry a kavadi.  I was told that she must have had a clear mind to be able to personify the spirit.  (Luckily, my mind was too overwhelmed to be hospitable to any spirits.)

A devotee wearing chains of restraint.

Not all devotees choose to perform extreme acts of piercing or carrying a kavadi.  Many carried a small burden or symbol of devotion called a pal kodum, or a pot of milk, on top of their heads to the top of Batu Caves.

Women carrying pal kodum to the top of Batu Caves

Once the devotees arrive at the Cave’s temple and perform their final prayers, their piercings and hooks are removed.  In addition to the temple, there was also a store where attendees could buy necklaces and religious items or purchase a photo of themselves to remember the occasion.

A number of commercial enterprises added a different dimension to the experience for visitors and participants.  Hundreds of thousands of attendees slowly pushed though rows of vendors selling food, sweets, cds, clothing, toys, and religious objects.  Temporary vegetarian restaurants were set-up to feed the hungry masses and families waited in line to ride the swings, roller coasters, and other amusement park attractions.  Religious prayers were recited over a loudspeaker system while jumbo screens allowed spectators to see individual devotees through the throngs of people.  So much to see and do at Thaipusam!

Climbing the stairs to reach the temple at the top

On my third evening in Malaysia, I experienced the marvels of Thaipusam.  I’ve created my first video post to transport you there, too.  Let me know what you think!

httpvhd://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sDHMcliY7w