Since returning from the field, we have been hard at work in Bhubaneswar. Between building a new website, writing funding proposals to support JRP’s malaria prevention and control work, processing data gathered in Daspalla, building a greater social media presence, meeting with potential donors, and contending with a financial audit, there is more than enough to keep us busy.
Fortunately, we have made significant progress in the last two weeks! JRP’s old website was 5 years out of date and nearly impossible to edit because it was constructed using obsolete, proprietary software. While there remains much to do, the new website will be clean, publicize JRP’s most recent projects, and have functional links that allow visitors to easily navigate the site, donate, send messages to JRP staff, or inquire about volunteer opportunities.
Speaking of social media, JRP is already quite proficient. That being said, it never hurts to be more organized. The combined malaria prevention and control project in the Chandaka Forest region and Neem Oil startup in the Daspalla tribal region are currently JRP’s most active projects, and we wanted to ensure that people are kept informed, especially given that the website lacks any information about this significant body of work. Now, while we occasionally miss a post, we have a social media schedule updated weekly in Google Drive. The most recent posts follow the early stages of the neem oil startup, but the schedule can ultimately be used to share updates about any of JRP’s projects.
Aside from office work, we also had several days off in the last two weeks due to the three-day Raja Festival. While not at work, I took advantage of the free time to explore Odisha’s cultural and spiritual heritage. Although not religious myself, I nonetheless take great interest in religion and regional traditions. In fact, prior to enrolling in graduate school, I completed a Watson Fellowship titled “Jewish Persistence in the Periphery of the Diaspora,” during which I delved into the intricacies of Jewish life in remote communities in diverse locales ranging from the Zimbabwean bush to desert villages in Uzbekistan.
The Raja festival, also known as Raja Sankranti, is a vibrant, three-day celebration unique to Odisha. Held in early June at the onset of the monsoon season, this festival honors the intrinsic connection between the fertility of the earth and that of women. During the holiday, women adorn themselves in new clothing and jewelry while men take responsibility for household chores. Agricultural activities are also paused, reflecting the belief that Mother Nature needs time to rejuvenate for the coming growing season. Sadly, I didn’t have the opportunity to experience the festival on an intimate level as it is most visible in rural areas and family homes. However, during a Friday visit to the Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves, I stumbled upon a public celebration. I witnessed women relaxing on the characteristic swings, tried special sweets like Podha Pitha made of fermented rice and coconut, and even met Aparajita Sarangi, an MP for Bhubaneswar from the BJP, who gave me a gift of betel nut.
The bulk of my holiday was spent learning about Odisha’s rich cultural and religious heritage. Today, the vast majority of the state’s population is Hindu, but there are countless iconic Buddhist and Jain monuments located throughout the state as well.
After celebrating Raja, I went across the street to visit the Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves complex. The light rain that day was refreshing, making the experience even more enjoyable as I explored the ancient caves that were originally carved out as residences for Jain monks. Dating back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BCE, the caves are spread across two hills and are a spectacular blend of man-made and natural rock structures. While not immediately apparent, if you look closely inside the caves, there are intricate carvings depicting Jain heritage and scenes from ancient life. Jainism isn’t prominent today, but the caves provide insight into a time when it flourished alongside other religions. Today, the caves remain an important pilgrimage site.
The next day, I traveled to Konark to visit the world-famous Konark Sun Temple, considered by many the most important symbol of Odisha. After a two-hour, sweaty bus ride, I arrived and was soon struck by the grandeur of the ancient temple. Despite the scorching heat, the coastal breeze offered some relief as I wandered around the lush grounds. The temple was designed as a colossal chariot for the sun god Surya, and every square inch of the structure is covered in intricate carvings. At the base, I marveled at the massive stone wheels and iconography telling stories from Hindu mythology. The highlight of my trip, however, was my visit to Konark beach. As soon as I saw the ocean, I couldn’t resist buying a swimsuit and jumping in. There’s nothing better in life than a swim in the ocean, although the sticky bus ride back to Bhubaneswar while covered in saltwater was somewhat less desirable.
My last destination during the three-day weekend was the Dhauli Hills. Located on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, this site holds spiritual significance for Buddhists. As I climbed the hills from Dhauli town center, the humidity was oppressive, and I was immediately drenched in sweat. My discomfort, however, was tempered by the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside from the top. The main attraction is the pristine, white Shanti Stupa. Even though it was built in the 1970s, it serves as an homage to Buddhism’s roots in Odisha. Nearby, I also explored the ancient Ashokan rock edicts which date back to the 3rd century BCE. Carved after the Kalinga War, this site is a testament to Emperor Ashoka’s remorse after a bloody conflict and his subsequent embrace of Buddhism. Like Hinduism and Jainism, Buddhism has also endured in Odisha for millennia.
To me, there is nothing more fascinating and exciting than religious overlap. Having lived in Jerusalem, I’m familiar with and have witnessed Muslims, Christians, and Jews living side-by-side. Here in Odisha, it’s Buddhists, Jains, and Hindus who have coexisted for millennia, leaving behind a rich tapestry of spiritual heritage. Much like the Abrahamic religions, these Indian faiths share common roots, all emerging from the philosophical traditions of ancient India and sharing concepts like karma, reincarnation, and the pursuit of liberation.
Posted By Adin Becker
Posted Jun 27th, 2024
3 Comments
Mary Ellen Cain
July 1, 2024
Another great blog, Adin! After doing so much work for JRP, you certainly earned your three-day break and made the most of it even in the stifling heat. Pics are terrific and I think it is encouraging to see how those three religions can co-exist for so long without rancor . . . we should all learn from that. The website is coming along nicely, too!
Iain Guest
July 3, 2024
Simply delightful stroll through the cultures and religions of Odisha, full of learning. Your monkey is indeed handsome but PLEASE do not get addicted to the Betel nut. That would not go down well at Harvard! Good luck with your return to Daspalla……
Bobbi Fitzsimmons
July 6, 2024
Thanks for this rich travelog, Adin. I especially enjoy hearing about festivals and ceremonies that recognize the importance of women in society. I hope Raja Sankranti isn’t the only time men help with the household chores! I didn’t realize you are so close to the ocean, What a nice break for you.