Thinking that I would catch up on writing, drink plenty of tea and relax Nepali style being that today, Saturday is the only day off of the week, I was quickly brought to my senses that once again things never happen how you think they might. I never know what the day will bring in Nepal and I really do appreciate the spontaneity that is forced upon me. Flexibility is as important as drinking water while living abroad I have discovered. I have grown to love the incessant visitors arriving at my door and the impromptu motorbike rides. I also never know who I will meet and what questions I will have to field representing the American way of life.

Me and Deepak Koirala

After the few minutes of getting ready I was out the door to meet Ajaya-ji’s friends for morning tea across the street from my house. Today, one of the only Nepali magicians was in town. Yes, in Gaighat of all places. His name is Deepak Koirala. Not knowing if magic was popular here or if it was a skill that people had, I had many questions. Deepok has been practicing for years and has even performed in Korea, Thailand and Hong Kong, not to mention many hotels and casinos here. I told him that I really enjoy David Blaine, the American magician who performs magic on the streets and Deepak replied, “Oh I am the David Blaine of Nepal” He hopes to become a professional so that he can travel with a work visa overseas and make a living as an entertainer.

Later in the day he performed some tricks, mostly with cards that I was in complete amazement by. My mouth was wide open as I questioned how he made my card appear out of nowhere. Maybe it was my sheer gullible self that allowed me to be in astonishment because others in the audience thought it was too simple and have seen the tricks before. I think the Nepali crowd is a little too critical because it seemed to me they were enjoying every minute of it during the show. I am still convinced that he has significant talent, along with remarkable charisma and I sincerely hope he is successful with his entertainment. He is planning another show in the area to win over journalists and radio stations so his act can spread further. If only there was a Vegas closer then Deepak could do so well. More to come on the upcoming star shortly after his much larger Gaighat performance.

Mediate: to try to end a disagreement between two or more people or groups by talking to them and trying to find things that everyone can agree on; to succeed in finding a solution to a disagreement between two people or groups.

Mediation, an extremely useful skill can be used anywhere in the world. Conflict is pervasive; in the home about what a child’s punishment should be to two political parties fighting over an army chief, as is the current news in Nepal with the Maoists and the government. It is essential to learn mediation skills in any context and think it’s very beneficial here in Nepal.

I am very interested in intercultural mediation practices so I was excited when Ram-ji Chaudray asked me to join him in a mediation orientation in Hadiya, a nearby village. NESPEC has realized that this is needed with their committees. Many members are in an environment where they are surrounded by constant conflict and do not know their resources or their capability in resolving problems. The purpose was to educate on a very basic level what exactly conflict is, what power sources there are and peoples rights.

After the long motorbike ride I was very curious on what the meeting was going to entail. I wondered how many committee members would attend considering maybe the subject did not interest them or how many could leave their work to attend. A good number arrived slowly to the field office, forcing us to move to the village district hall. There were almost twenty Hadiya committee members in attendance. Unfortunately only two were males. Since there was a lot of rain the days before there is a lot of cultivation work to be done.

Ram-ji, the project coordinator presented in a very clear manner with colorful cards that made for easy understanding. He asked, “What are the local problems here?” Many replied with answers ranging from; alcohol consumption, women not leaving the house, domestic violence and differences in ethnic groups. The participants were very active throughout the day, revealing that maybe this was not only awareness-building, yet also a way of venting what was stressing them out. Nepali tradition during meetings is to have a closure where participants share what they learned. Many stood up proudly explaining they were very grateful for the orientation and learned many new things such as the political structure, along with conflict management. I was able to interview two women at the end of the meeting with translation help. I hope to post when I am hooked up to a better internet signal.

Women at mediation meeting

Along the dusty roads and through the small rivers on motorbike, the NESPEC group made our way to a field office in Hadiya where I was able to talk with the secretary of the women’s rights forum, Ganga Rai. 

Women's Rights Forum Testimonals

            Just as in other developing countries, fighting patriarchy is an uphill battle culturally and politically.  There have been major improvements in the past few years; women now have rights to land at birth, decriminalized abortion and also the government removed a law that allowed men to divorce their wife if she was infertile.  To my surprise, women comprise 33 percent of the Constituent Assembly and have women on each of the eleven constitutions committees. 

            However, there have been some setbacks.  For instance, a law was recently approved to pay men who marry widows.  50,000 rupees would be given to men who marry widows.  The government believes this is a way to help women who lost their husbands in the civil war.  More than 12,800 people were killed in the ten-year war.  Why wouldn’t the government provide basic employment trainings, education, health care or social security?  Women are still considered second-class citizens to some in power it seems.  NESEPEC is addressing the new law in their women’s forum meetings to spread awareness and hope to pressure local officials to revoke the law. 

            Yet, I must be positive, for the first time in history, women will have a voice in the parliament and at last will have their rights represented. There are many powerful women’s groups that are relentless in lobbying and listening to the marginalized. Yah for the women’s movement in Nepal!  

In only a few weeks time I will experience the strong unity women share in the festival for women called Teej.  A Hindu festival, where women fast and pray Lord Shiva for a long life. My friends here have described it as one big party where red saris, lots of jewelry and dancing are required.  It will be an unforgettable time to celebrate with my new friends here.

Ganga Rai of Women's Right Forum

Devki Devi Chaudray making plate

Community Center being built

How the villagers sustain themselves

How the villagers sustain themselves

            This week has been hitting me hard physically from getting sick to my stomach to a nonstop runny nose. For some reason before leaving to come here I thought I would be invincible and did not think to bring much medicine.  I was able to buy some meds at the pharmacy so I’ll give it a little while for them to kick in and see how Nepali drugs work.  Nepal has awakened every one of my senses in ways that I could not imagine.  Breathing in the thick, hot oven air, (garmee, hot in Nepali is a frequently spoken word) smelling the various, sometimes not so pleasant smells and watching the women in their colorful saris carrying large baskets of vegetables on their heads all consists of my daily walk to NESEPC. The way of life has been a respite from the often hectic, overwhelming western lifestyle.  How will I ever go back to having a quick cup of coffee in the morning, running to work when I could have a leisurely Nepali tea and biscuits?  Morning, my favorite time here when the pigeons, roosters and goats outside my window awake me and the sun creeps over the brightly colored radio station building near by.  I look out my window every morning and am in awe that I have made a home and found life long friends around the world.   

             I was able to take part in a committee meeting out in the Sundarpur village about an hour motorbike ride away from NESPEC. The Dhamchap village, located within Sundarpur consists of 34 houses made of mud, bamboo and wood.  The people are all of the Tharu caste, speaking their own ethnic language. The villagers came together and decided that they needed a community center that will serve many functions.  The most general need would be for gatherings, such as women’s meetings for sharing their issues. In addition, guests will stay when visiting in the center. The community center will be available if needed and donations will be accepted from guests to go towards the village.  They have asked NESPEC for help with building the roof.  It was fascinating to see how well the people worked together for one common goal.  Extra wood from each house was shared to build the house and have agreed to work together in the future about important decisions regarding the center.

             I witnessed NESPEC’s model at work; helping a committee, always allowing for the members to be the ones building so they take ownership of the community center.  If NESPEC built the center then the members would not take as much pride in it.  A simple empowerment approach that I believe more organizations need to follow.  Let the people be the change in the community.

            Collective communities can teach me a thing or two about how to work in a group.  I had to take a class on teamwork at school while these villagers have it in their culture.  The sense of togetherness is instilled in them when they enter the world. The distance in our cultures on occasion astonishes me.  

            The Dhamchap village sits on disputed land that is government owned. They left their prior land in 1996 due to flooding and still are fighting for the land.  They have a temporary certificate by the Village Development Committee because of the unwritten constitution.  After the laws are written is when they will have permission to live there they believe.  Even remote villages are waiting patiently for the government to finish writing laws.  The projected deadline is May 10, 2010, although it is looking like it may not be enough time to finish.  The tolerance of the Nepali people surrounding the slow government process is certainly very commendable.  I’m glad that civil society in Nepal is so strong, that people are passionate here about their rights and open political conversations can occur.  I sincerely hope that villages like these will improve after the constitution is written and the “New Nepal” can emerge.  

            Cultivation is the major outsource for the village as well as selling the Bhorla leaf (see picture) to make plates for eating.  When a few of the women were explaining they sell leaves in the market I had to see for myself.  They quickly found some to give to me and said only to eat once off of them, called  “one time plates.”  One of the women, Devki Devi Chaudray (in picture) made a plate in about thirty seconds with string made of bamboo.  They can sell one hundred leaves for about thirty rupees in the market (less than one dollar), sustainably helping out their livelihoods. 

            When I asked what other problems they are facing, the president of the committee responded with how they need more food.  They can only produce enough food for six months and depend heavily on rainfall.  The village members asked the program coordinator of NESEPEC, Ram Chaudray if NESPEC could setup an irrigation system to water their gardens for an extended time to help during drought seasons.  NESPEC does not have the capability for such a system but they will make the effort to ask local officials what can be done. I couldn’t help think to myself why can’t more be done to help their food production?  A whole village would be fed, not a single person, many lives would be benefited.  Feed a village should be the catchphrase, not just one child or even one hungry family.

Conference hall

It was another crowded roller coaster bus ride to the second largest city in Nepal, about four hours southeast, along the Indian border. Green, rolling hills with endless rice fields, cows and goats grazing and many young boys bathing in the local watering holes. One of those water sources is the largest river in Nepal, the Sapti Koshi that has over ten dams. Last year, one of the dams broke suddenly, tragically wiping 5,000 homes in Nepal and 500,000 in India, (in the Bihar state). Still causing much concern because of the fear of the old dam structures, also resulting in strife between the two countries.

As the bus turned to escape from a massive pothole, was when I thought, I am going overboard with everyone on this crowded bus. Luckily, the driver turned the wheel abruptly as if it were a knee jerk response to an everyday problem. Driving around children, cows, goats, motorcycles, and cars is extraordinary and certainly no small task.

While looking out to the beautiful landscape, I began thinking about the same lingering questions that I have for sometime, what exactly are the problems and benefits of foreign aid? The roads are another sign of the under-development in Nepal and how infrastructure improvements are required for the future. The Nepali news on TV reports almost nightly about incidents of landslides, bus accidents and the diarrhea outbreak in the western Terai. 200 people have died in the outbreak and the government has been greatly criticized for acting so slowly with medicine.

I used to always think that you have to serve the people, however I’m beginning to think that foreign aid needs to be directed to the industry base instead. (One of the many issues that I need to dedicate time researching which will be difficult due to the stubborn internet connection). Many NESPEC workers are unable to reach needed villages due to flooded roads during the monsoon season, producing for worsening conditions for people and also, the organization is unable to carry out its mission. If foreign aid is given more effectively to roads, then marginalized people, such as the indigenous groups in the hill valleys can be reached because the roads will be drivable.  A book I am reading that I found in Kathmandu, “Fatalism and Development” by Dor Bahadur Bista says that

“The purpose of foreign aid is to develop a strong infrastructure that can generate  its own process of growth, to address the economic needs of the people and raise the standard of living. Once the infrastructure is in place, and the initial capital investment has been made, the ideal expectation is to wean itself from its aid dependency. Nepal’s success will then depend on the economic skills of it’s own people.

 If donors give aid to help develop Nepal it cannot be enough. The Nepali people need to take action and more importantly, the government and the peace process need be sustained. The wealth coming into the country is not turning out as hoped, not to mention the aid has covered up the economic corruption occurring.

 “If we had more money and industry, then better roads could be built and remote villages can be reached but we live in one of the poorest countries in the world”, a common statement from many Nepalese here whom I have spoken to about the future of their country.

I’m beginning to hear the words, “we live in a poor country” all too frequently. Maybe I don’t want to hear this as it reminds me of my privilege of being American. Yes, Nepal is a poor country, although I believe there is a psychological dependency there that can be threatening to the country as a whole. Below is a Nepali proverb that describes this attachment:

“Do not feel too sorry for the death of one son but watch out that death might return again frequently.”

 The same danger lies in Americans believing they are citizens of the best country in the world. Being poor or wealthy becomes a fact of life for people, a self fulfilled prophecy that deepens the divide between the underclass and the upper class.

Me and Ganga Rai, a Nespec board member at conference

Dalit woman and child

Outside of Nespec

NESPEC has been quite hectic the past few days with the monthly review and planning meetings.  My desire to learn Nepali has heightened even more after sitting in the discussions with only some translation.  All staff members and some board members were present to check in with the activities for the past month as well as plan for next month.  Each social mobilizer presented their activities in July and then feedback was provided.  The issues that NESPEC have are the same that many other NGOs face.  Field offices not open long enough, committees not following saving model, resources lacking, donors adapting grants and the most common problem, staff are not getting paid enough. Even on the other side of the world the same issues are struggles with organizations.  

The organization is a broadly based human rights NGO, working on four campaigns; land rights and food security, education, women’s rights and health. Since the start of NESPEC in 1997, the organization has always focused on what marginalized people need in Gaighat and the surrounding areas.  A human rights based approach was implemented, educating people on their rights with an overall awareness of various issues.  The awareness eventually led to people who would never speak out demand the government for important issues, such as water pumps and land rights.  Just recently, one committee asked for a foot water pump, which will help grow their vegetables. These simple requests are how villages will sustain their food supply, especially with an organization like NESPEC supporting them.    

The largest campaign that NESEPC is working on currently is the food and land rights campaign with Action Aid Nepal.  NESPEC, along with seven other organizations are forming ways to help marginalized people live better lives with sustained income.  One way NESEPC is taking action is through farming groups, in which 45 have formed in different districts.  The farmers talk about their problems with the land, and as a result formed a micro finance system.  Loans can now be given with very small interest to those in the community that are in need.  There are also REFLECT classes in which NESPEC oversees, a town hall like forum that marginalized groups can tell their stories and can feel empowered through local government advocacy.  NESPEC is a powerful force in Gaighat and will continue to be with its determined activists and campaigns.  Local government policy has been influenced by the campaigns.  Now the district members are committed to changing the micro credit system so that it is assessable to all.

An issue in Nepal that I witness on a daily basis is the inequality of women.  Many have approached me asking what America is like, how I have been able to come here and most important, how do I like Nepal.  Those are the simple questions that are entertaining to answer.  However, it’s when the conversation gets deeper is when it becomes very complicated.  Every woman has had extreme hardship to endure in this society. Childbirth for example, can be very dangerous to the mother and they are forced to take care of the household the day after giving birth, resulting in serious medical problems years later.  Domestic abuse, unequal pay and low literacy rates are other issues to name a few, all in which NESPEC is fighting against. 

A monthly women’s forum has been established by NESPEC where oppressed women gather to speak about their experiences ranging from land rights, to how to get out of domestic abuse situations. The women have felt very empowered through this story telling and a survey was conducted by NESPEC with women in various communities about domestic abuse that was then passed onto the local governments.  The ministry has recently passed a new law in which women who have been abused by their husbands are given compensation.  In the end, women in the forum felt very empowered by making a significant social change.

It is truly astounding to see such a small organization make such a large impact in the community policy level.  NGO’s such as these are needed in a country where the government is seen as corrupt to most citizens and very slow to actually listen to its people.  

The next blog hopefully will be about the children’s campaigns in the field if the rain ever stops. 

Rice fields 

Nepal-tar home

Nepal-tar home

I have arrived in Gaighat at last in the district of Udayapur after a long yet peaceful journey. I am happy to report there were no bandhas (strikes) to interrupt the ride. It has been more than a week here in the center of the district and I have spent my time becoming acquainted with NESPEC and settling in with my new family.  Gaighat is much more bustling than I expected with crowded streets in the market area with people buying goods ranging from color televisions to mangos.  My Nepali is limited to a few words that include many gestures so there is much to learn since English speakers are limited.

 

The western luxuries found in Kathmandu are no longer found here as my daily meals consist of dahl bhat, Nepal’s national dish of lentils, rice and vegetable curry two times a day. I truly appreciate how almost all of my food is coming directly from the land with the fresh vegetables from my family’s garden.

 

Over the weekend I was able to enjoy the local food even more when Sova, the mother of the family I am staying with took me to her family’s house in Nepal-Tai west of Gaighat in the hillside.  Much more remote than any areas I have seen so far I was able to see how rural farmers live and understand the cultivation process.  This way of living was all very new to me since I did not grow up on a farm and never started a garden, all in which I feel very ignorant about.  Planting and cultivating food is the means on how to live yet tragically I feel so far away from living off the land because of my American luxurious life.  No bright, freezing cold super markets here.  Since NESPEC works with farming committees and landless people this was an important experience for my future field visits to the many farming committees that NESPEC supports.  

 

Just about every family has a rice field and some, if they are lucky like Sova’s family have mango, banana, corn, guava and many animals to keep their stomachs full.  I am very proud of my organic local eating that I would not be able to keep up in America and have even introduced the term “organic” to others here.  It was fascinating to see rice being planted; the cultivation season certainly brings the entire community together.  The traditional dress in the hillside area is the Guneyocholai that consists of a sari and a long sleeved blouse.  In the excruciating heat women plow the rice and cultivate in the hot sun. 

 

This Saturday NESPEC will hold it’s monthly meeting in which plans for next month will be made.  I will then coordinate which areas I will be visiting in order to profile for NESPEC’s food security campaign with Action Aid.

 

 

Tomorrow I leave for Gaighat out in the Eastern Terai with Ajaya who is a member of NESPEC. I have finally met Ajaya who I have been in contact with for months now and am now looking forward to understanding NESPEC’s various campaigns. I will be focusing on farmer’s land rights, an issue that I will certainly be learning a lot about. Over 90 percent of Nepal’s population is involved in agriculture, thus rights and advocacy of farmers is extremely important. It is their livehood yet many have no land which means no food for their families.

I arrived almost two weeks ago in Kathmandu with much excitement to learn and work in Nepal. My days have been filled with wandering around the city aimlessly, shopping in Thamel, the backpacking tourist district, visiting beautiful Polkhara and researching the development work here as well. The senses are on constant over load with the chaotic sounds and smells of the street. Kathmandu is a city filled with immense poverty everywhere. The begging child on the street who is hysterically crying asking for water or money, the stray dogs desperate and the families passing time with their hands out are all the faces of great despair that I now have on my mind. The poverty is not only an individual level but also throughout the city. There are power outages daily and I am lucky if I can get a call out on my mobile. The common phrase, “everything is taking for granted back home” is entirely understated.

I am continuously filled with guilt with being a foreigner on my first step outside the guesthouse every morning. I get frustrated and want to help, yet then the controversial questions arise with giving out money. My privilege has never been so apparent with the color of my skin and by the clothes I am wearing. The same question that persists in the back of my mind and has initiated my career in development is, “Why was I born in such a wealthy country, why me?” I hope through this fellowship I will be able to tell stories of those who could never get their voice heard and realize that through understanding and empathy I can be of some sort of help.

I could have been born anywhere, that age-old statement I believe for me is the catalyst alone to propel me to work here. I owe it to oppressed people or anywhere when asked for help. My power and privilege that being an American holds is staggering to think about and I hope that everyone reading this will get a chance to see themselves differently in a developing country.

My trip here has been very tumultuous at times and other moments have been filled with pure joy, especially with meeting people here and getting to know a vastly different culture. Yesterday, Jessica, another AP Peace fellow and I went to Patan, a small town right outside of the city to see the famous Dubar Square there. It was a beautiful site to see with the ancient temples and it was after a Hindu festival that morning. There was an open-air market with all kinds of fruit, shoes, colorful saris and endless bracelets. Friends and families were walking around slowly. The slowness in their walk surprises me since their driving is much faster and very aggressive, one of the countless contradictions in this culture. Saturday is their only day off, as Nepalese work six days a week so it’s a great day to explore the city.

I have decided to go out to the Terai, to Gaighat after some hesitation for many reasons. My life will drastically change from my now comfortable Kathmandu life to an area that rarely sees foreigners. The future ahead is unknown of what my work will entail and filled with many emotions. My new family awaits me with much less pollution in a green land. I will celebrate my 26^th birthday on a bumpy roller coaster ride out to my new home for the next few months. Good karma I hope will come tomorrow morning with no bandhas, what they call strikes here. More to come shortly with pictures when a better internet connection hopefully.