Day one in Kampala. I pushed my load of luggage out of the airport to the welcome area and scanned the crowd for a sign with my name.  Thirty pairs of eyes laughed when I just blurted out “Fairway hotel?””Ah Fairway Hotel!”  Ten fingers pointed outside to a smiling uniformed man carrying a sign with “Mr. Christine” printed on it. In the distance were rolling hills covered with little lights and a starry night above.  In complete contradiction to what I was told the climate felt ideal for the human body… almost nurturing. It immediately made sense that this was the cradle of humanity. It was a brilliant greeting. Thirty minutes later I was covered in mosquito bites (thank goodness I had already started my malaria meds) and breathing smoke from open fires and kerosene lamps that line the teeming road to Kampala. 

Dina Buck,(http://advocacynet.org/wordpress-mu/dbuck/) my summer colleague was waiting for me the hotel. We shared some fresh pineapple juice and Indian food in the lush garden patio and planned how we would maximize our time before heading to Gulu. We agreed that we wanted a balance of meetings, preparation/shopping time and a good dose of local culture.  Dina agreed to let me drag her to dance shows! Breakdance Project Uganda- here we come.(http://www.myspace.com/breakdanceprojectuganda)   Later, lying under our mosquito nets we giggled sharing stories of home. To our surprise we both have a deep connection to the Puget Sound in Washington state and we cooed as we recalled smacking the sea water at night with our oars to ignite the glowing sea plankton.  We are going to have great time together.

We were brutally awoken by the sound of giant birds cawing outside our window and joked that a pterodactyl was trying to break in.  We enjoyed some of the best fruit I’ve ever had and then cabbed it to the center of town. After Dina guided me through purchasing a cell phone and exchanging money-neither of which were straightforward at all, I repaid her kindness by dragging her through some overwhelming street markets that probably sell everything one could imagine.

 It was in this hustle and bustle that I had my first heart wrenching encounter with a person who had lost the use of their legs and was required to crawl through the filthy streets.  In one hour I witnessed at least five more persons with similar disabilities. No wheelchairs or handicap accessible buildings in sight.  My work is cut out for me, but it’s going to be a magical summer.

The countdown to Gulu is approaching. DC training is over. Trying to read everything I can about where I’m about to go and hopefully get some good work done. When the stories seem overwhelming I think back to my work tutoring children with East African Community Services in Seattle. http://www.eastafricancs.org/.  Every story has a face. Cultural difference can be overcome with a little humor and grace.

Uganda Sketches:

“The first thing I missed about Uganda was how affectionate everyone was. When I got off the plane on my return home tried to hold my Mom’s hand and she pulled away. I wanted to go back immediately.” Friend in Seattle.

“Travel in the vicinity of Gulu, Lira and other areas north of the Nile is highly risky; if not downright suicidal.” Philip Briggs “Uganda” (1993)

“Uganda is great, the people are mostly very friendly, and Gulu especially has a really cool feel to it.” US Official in Kampala, Uganda.

“Today, I signed into law the Lord’s Resistance Army Disarmament and Northern Uganda Recovery Act of 2009. The legislation crystallizes the commitment of the United States to help bring an end to the brutality and destruction that have been a hallmark of the LRA across several countries for two decades…” President Obama, May 24, 2010

I LOVE ACHOLI BEADS: “Everyone in their Acholi tribe lost someone. (The Acholi tribe is from northern Uganda) They ended up in a hillside slum just outside of Uganda’s capital, where the only way they could feed their families and the orphans they cared for was working in a dangerous rock quarry, crushing rocks for $1 per day – the international standard for Extreme Poverty. Now these women earn a professional wage making Acholi Beads. They handcraft each bead from a piece of recycled paper, and creatively string them together into the beautiful pieces…They work from the comfort of their homes, or together in common areas, and have started their own legal cooperative to manage their successful jewelry business.”  http://acholibeads.com/story/

last night in carmel

After exams were over for my first year of graduate school I celebrated with champagne in a posh bar in Carmel. The table of strangers across at the next table congratulated me and my colleagues and asked me what was next, “Advocating for the disabled in northern Uganda.” The contrast of settings was surreal. They shifted uncomfortably in their seats and made a few comments about all those “poor victims in Africa.”  I smiled and explained that the region I’m going to is experiencing a renaissance of hope and that the individuals I’ve connected with during my planning have sent me the warmest letters of gratitude and joy.  A woman in the group asked how she could help. (Of course I gave them my AP website that includes a donations link!)

Once I threw myself into the idea that I was actually going to Uganda for the summer and started making inquiries the connections flooded in. I’m eager to meet all the wonderful people in Gulu who have sent me such warm messages.  The tone of their corrospondance astounds me after having read of the unfathomable horror that took place there.  Everyone I have met tells that the memories press closely but the sense of hope is equally present.

My images of mondern Gulu were best formed by my conversations with fellow graduate student Muwor Dior who is from southern Sudan. I gave him a worried look about finding accommodation and he returned with a belly laugh and, “Oh Christine, a family will take you in, everyone is wonderful there. You will have a great time.” The next day he connected me with Joyce Laker who is also an alumna from our school and from Gulu.  Not only was she extremely kind in offering me assistance with securing lodging but, to my surprise she she wrote, “My mother was the coordinator for the Union for a long period of time since its inception. …I am so excited for you and my mum will be very proud of you.” One more incredible sign that I’m supposed to be going to Gulu.

My heart is open and ready for more confirmation that not only will I be fine in Gulu,but my fellowship with GDPU will manifest incredible opportunities.  http://www.advocacynet.org/page/campaigngdpu