Bangladesh has yet to make it onto most tourist itineraries because of overpopulation, environmental problems, poverty and myriad other challenges, but Bangladesh is worth visiting for one reason: the people.  The Bangladeshi people are hospitable, patient and always willing to help.  The people I have met and the new perspectives they have provided me with will be what I remember most as I leave Bangladesh.

Micro-finance group discussion in Tongi

When I first learned that there are approximately two million people with visual impairments in Bangladesh and then witnessed the poverty on the streets and endless hartals (strikes) over government disagreements, BERDO’s mission seemed almost insurmountable.  My summer here has shown me that BERDO’s reach is small, but they somehow find a way to address Bangladesh’s challenges head-on and create an environment where people with disabilities can come for training, resources and meeting others.  BERDO’s staff members taught me how to guide people who are blind and how to organize a program with incredibly limited resources.  They taught me about their culture, their country and personalized international development for me in a way that complements my graduate school curriculum.

My fellowship has re-affirmed for me that people with disabilities do not want special treatment; they want an opportunity to participate fully in society.  People in both the United States and Bangladesh have told me how they desire to have society focus on their abilities rather than their disabilities and how they could do this job or that job if only they were given the opportunity.  I am blessed to know people in different parts of the world that are helping with job placement and educating communities about disability issues, one person at a time.

I wanted to complete my blog with a link to BERDO’s new website, but this project that I have been working on all summer is still a week or two away from completion.  However, it would be remiss of me not to add one small fundraising plug for BERDO.  Bangladesh is home to 23,000 NGOs, and competition is intense!  I have personally learned how frustrating fundraising can be for a local NGO in a developing country, and I can assure you that a small amount of money can go a long way in Bangladesh.  If you are interested in donating to BERDO, this can be done through the Advocacy Project’s partner website at http://advocacynet.org/page/berdo.

I will close with some of my favorite pictures from the summer and a quote by Margaret Mead that encapsulates BERDO’s work, “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world.  Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.”

Dominoes time!

Maksuda saying goodbye

Halima Begum prepares lunch

Practical disability awareness education

Amanda Lasik and Md. Saidul Huq at Lalbagh Fort

Most of my fellowship has taken place in Dhaka, a city that can overwhelm you with its traffic, hot weather and crowds.  It is home to both sprawling slums and the largest shopping mall in South Asia.  People come to the city in search of economic opportunities, and Dhaka has become so vast that it’s easy to forget that almost 80% of Bangladesh’s population still lives in rural areas.  I spent the last week celebrating Eid in Barisal where I caught a glimpse of how people cope with disabilities.

Bangladesh's rural areas

I found myself standing outside of BERDO’s office struggling with the lock and sweating profusely despite the fact that it was only 8 am.  I decided to inquire with the neighbor to see if she knew anything about the lock and was immediately offered tea and a seat directly in front of her fan.  Although our verbal communication was limited, I could see the grimace of pain on her face from an ankle injury that had not received proper medical care.  I then watched as the woman’s mother crawled out of her room and with the help of her granddaughter hoisted herself up on a chair to sit.  The elderly women had lost the ability to use her legs and had no wheelchair or other mobility device to help her navigate the small home.  Even though I could tell that she too was in pain, the exchange of glances between the woman and her grandchild made me think that she was as well cared for as she could be given the circumstances.

When someone finally came to open the office door and I left the small home, my thoughts were on the importance of family in Bangladesh.  I think that people here cope with disability and just about everything that comes their way by being there for their families.  I am sure that a heavy care giving burden fell upon the young girl in the family that I met, but I was happy to see them together and to see how much they cared for each other.  They coped with disability not with crutches or wheelchairs or government or NGO assistance (although I will try to see if BERDO can get them a wheelchair) but by being there for each other and staying grounded in their faith.

I did not take a picture of the family in my story but did include a photo of me with two members of the Huq family in Barisal.

Amanda with friends in Barisal

The Independent recently reported an effort by Bangladesh’s government to count and interview beggars in the capital for the purpose of designing rehabilitation programs (article).  While this is an important task, I would like to see the government take bigger steps towards addressing education for persons with disabilities before they become beggars.  This statistic from the World Health Organization’s World Report on Disability (report) caught my attention, and I hope it will draw the attention of Bangladesh’s government as well:

In Bangladesh, the cost of disability due to foregone income from a lack of schooling and employment, both of people with disabilities and their caregivers, is estimated at US $1.2 billion annually or 1.7% of GDP. 

Currently, Bangladesh only provides Braille education for a small fraction of students with visual impairments at its five special schools.  BERDO’s School of Happy World responds to this unmet need by offering opportunities for children from Bangladesh’s remote regions to learn to read and write Braille at a residential school in Dhaka.  Here are the stories from two students at the School of Happy World:

Md. Ashadul Huq reading Braille

Md. Ashadul Huq was born with partial vision in only one of his eyes.  An only child, he came to BERDO’s School of the Happy World when his father died and his mother was unable to care for him.  Ashadul is smart and assertive and has incredible leadership skills for an eleven-year-old.  He volunteers to help with chores and always asks me if I need hot water for tea or anything else to eat.  He has made great strides in his ability to read and write Braille in his five years with the school and has adjusted well to the residential environment at BERDO. 

Md. Sajib enjoys the Iftar celebration

Md. Sajib was discovered by a BERDO scout while begging on the street.  His father passed away and his mother barely makes enough money to feed herself.  He had sores all over his body that required immediate medical attention when he came to the School of Happy World, but since then he has made great academic strides in his three years at the school.  However, the thing I have noticed most about Sajib is his playful sense of humor.  He carries his mischievous smile with him all over BERDO’s facility and adds energy to any playtime.

Amanda celebrates with the School of Happy World

The students spend most of their time inside of BERDO’s facility, so I decided to take them out for a special dinner.

This blog is dedicated to my friends at the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. I have always been proud of the Society’s advocacy for public accessibility and transportation and the way that activists are able to effectuate change on a local level in the United States. I have created this photo blog to illustrate some of the differences between disability advocacy in the developed and developing world.  Both BERDO and the National MS Society strive for full inclusion for persons with disabilities, but the challenges that both organizations face are distinct. When I look at these pictures, I imagine myself as a person that uses a wheelchair or has a visual impairment.

A Typical Sidewalk in Mirpur, Dhaka

Sidewalk Construction in Mirpur, Dhaka

Mirpur Curb

Sidewalk in Mirpur, Dhaka

Congestion at New Market

Barisal Boat Entrance

To see all of my BERDO photos, please visit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/advocacy_project/sets/72157626567409447/

With the start of Ramadan, I thought I would take a step back from disability issues to reflect on a few cultural observations from life in Bangladesh.

Let’s start with Ramadan. As the ninth month of the Islamic calendar was approaching, at least 10 different people told me that we would meet after Ramadan or take care of the project after Ramadan. I found myself wondering if the whole country would shut down for a month. I decided to fast for a couple of days to gain a better understanding of this important Muslim tradition. I will admit that I made it both harder and easier on myself by skipping the pre-dawn meal (Suhoor) and drinking water to avoid any heat stroke episodes. After feeling dizzy and cranky by day two of my fast, I gained respect for those who do it throughout the entire month. I also learned that business does not stop because of Ramadan but continues at a slower pace as people spend more time devoted to prayer and with their families. The Muslims I have met in Bangladesh are peaceful and grounded in their faith, and I wish more Americans could learn about Islam in the way I have over the past month.

Typical food for Iftar

On a lighter note, I have to mention rickshaws. These colorful bicycles with attached carts have become a frequent means of transportation for me. Rickshaws come with just one gear, and I often find myself wishing I could buy multiple gears for all of the rickshaws in Bangladesh when I see a man of about 100 pounds carrying a very heavy load. However, this purchase may present a financial burden for me because I have heard estimates of the number of rickshaws in Dhaka alone to be between 400,000 and 600,000!

Rickshaw in Mirpur

A rickshaw ride begins with a negotiation–not over the price, but over if the driver will actually take you to your desired destination. Sometimes they would rather take a nap in the shade or drink a cup of cha (tea). When you do make it onto the rickshaw, you have to be prepared for going full speed over bumps and cutting off motorized vehicles. Rickshaws certainly contribute to the madness of Dhaka’s roads, but they add color and character to the city.

Making Cha

I would be remiss if I did not mention food and meal time in this blog. Although I have become somewhat comfortable eating rice and most things with my right hand, I am still amazed when people spit fish bones out on the table or eat their meal three times faster than I do. Also, every person I have met in Bangladesh (regardless of their size) has put me to shame when it comes to eating rice. They consume it in vast quantities for breakfast, lunch and dinner and will always encourage me to eat more. Finally, I have to comment on how delicious the cha is in Bangladesh. Although I have not stopped wanting coffee, I can purchase a cup of sweet, milky tea on any street corner for about $.07.

BERDO’s staff worked around the clock to transform a drab basement into a festive room for an anniversary celebration with 200 guests. The event featured speeches from BERDO’s executive director and board members, presentations from government officials, music and my own attempt at addressing the crowd in Bangla. As I stumbled over a few Bangla words, I realized that the crowd was so friendly that it didn’t matter if my pronunciation was poor. They were just proud to be associated with BERDO and happy to be celebrating the occasion.

Anniversary Music

The event featured the achievements of students and provided time for BERDO’s participants to share their experiences or showcase their musical talents. However, the biggest round of applause came when Bangladesh’s State Minister of Health and Family Welfare promised that he would offer more government grants for rehabilitation and said that he would look into recruitment of persons with visual impairments for government positions.

The State Minister Speaks

Four of Bangladesh’s English newspapers covered the occasion, and the event’s disability awareness was compounded by the fact that a large autism conference was held in Bangladesh on the same weekend. After an interview with BERDO’s executive director, the newspapers described how it is common for people with visual impairments to be found begging on the streets and highlighted the need for education and job placement for people with disabilities. I think that BERDO is smart in emphasizing an economic impact to draw attention to disability issues.

Time for Cake

Overall, BERDO has much to be proud of as it moves past its 20th anniversary. I believe that Syed Tanveer Hussain, Former Secretary of the Government of Bangladesh, summed it up best when he said, “All the darkness in the world cannot put out the light of one small candle. BERDO is that one small candle. Their potential should be nurtured by persons and institutions both at home and abroad.”

The University of California, San Diego has a development economist who has worked extensively in the field of microfinance and is highly critical of its empirical benefits.  However, in Bangladesh I find myself surrounded by organizations like Grameen Bank and BRAC that really believe in microfinance as a development tool.  Ever since I visited BERDO’s community-based rehabilitation groups, I find myself thinking about microfinance from different angles.

On one hand, I can hear my professor saying that the impact of microfinance on client welfare is still not clear and that it does not have a transformative effect on people’s lives.  He argues that loans are often used for consumption rather than investment and that few clients really climb the ladder of credit to start larger businesses.  On the other hand, if you spend any time in Bangladesh you can understand why it was the birthplace of microfinance.  The Bangladeshi people are hard workers, but with an estimated population of between 142 and 164 million, there are simply not enough resources to go around.  Microfinance provides a mechanism for reaching some of the most marginalized communities. 

The Grameen Bank Project started its first micro-credit program in Jobra, Bangladesh in 1976 with the goal of extending banking facilities to poor women and men while eliminating the exploitation of the poor by money lenders.  Today microcredit has become a hot topic among development researchers and practitioners and many point to situations where microcredit has strayed from its original purpose.  For example, a 2007 Businessweek article details how Compartamos (let’s share in Spanish) charged its clients annual interest rates in excess of 100% in some cases and went from a nonprofit organization to a for-profit bank that provided an excellent return for its investors.  http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/07_52/b4064045919628.htm

Community group meeting in Barisal

So where do I stand on microfinance?  I agree with my professor that microfinance is not the solution to every development problem and that the movement needs to focus more on savings.  However, when I make a field visit I am more focused on the woman’s face that lights up when she tells me about purchasing a cow for her family than the hard statistics.  BERDO provides microcredit at a rate of 12.5% and has been generous in extending grace periods for repayments during natural disasters like the typhoon that swept through Bangladesh in 2007.  I do not think that BERDO’s microfinance program would pass a rigorous empirical evaluation, but I do think that it is adding value to communities and allowing people to think beyond tomorrow to what the future could hold, something that I believe has inherent value.

More about my professor at the University of California, San Diego: http://irps.ucsd.edu/faculty/faculty-directory/craig-mcintosh.htm
More about Grameen Bank: http://www.grameen-info.org
One of my favorite websites for clarifying microfinance rates and fees: http://www.mftransparency.org

I have educated people on multiple sclerosis and the needs of persons with disabilities in the United States, but I learned a lesson in true disability education from rural communities in Bangladesh during my trip to Barisal and Banaripara.  As part of BERDO’s community-based rehabilitation program, people with and without disabilities come together to receive microcredit and discuss disability issues.   These programs take place outside of Bangladesh’s major cities where loans are often used to purchase a cow or a rickshaw and group discussions focus on integrating people with disabilities into society.

During one of my community visits in Barisal, 25 people crowded into a tiny house to eagerly tell me what they had purchased with their loan or why they had joined the community group.  One group member told me that she was not interested in a loan at this time but had joined the group to learn about and discuss disability issues with members of her community.  As I looked around the packed room, I got the feeling that the disability education being shared by this group was much more powerful than what could be conveyed by a colorful brochure or a glitzy website.  This group really understood what disability education was about and was sharing on a deeper level than I had ever seen in the United States.

Community meeting in Barisal

I also found myself asking each group about the perception of people with disabilities in Bangladesh.  The consensus was that people with disabilities are often seen as a burden to society but that public consciousness is gradually changing.  The groups discussed the stigma associated with disabilities and the need to educate parents on the resources available for disabled children.  I was also pleased to learn that Bangladesh’s government started providing educational stipends to persons with disabilities in 2007.  Although the stipends are small at four to 14 dollars a month, it is a step for Bangladesh towards fulfilling its commitment to the UN Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities and decreasing the high dropout rate of students with disabilities.

Group meeting in Banaripara

Although most developed countries are years ahead of Bangladesh in terms of accessibility and services for persons with disabilities, I was happy to see the progress being made in individual communities towards inclusion of persons with disabilities.

The executive director of the Blind Education and Rehabilitation Development Organization (BERDO) became blind at age six when he contracted typhoid.  Another one of BERDO’s staff members became ill with polio at a young age and has an underdeveloped lower body as a result of the disease.  Disabilities of all types can be seen during a quick walk or rickshaw ride in this country.  I am encouraged by the fact that Bangladesh made polio vaccines routine throughout the country in 1985 and that the disease was declared eradicated in Bangladesh in 2000.  However, it’s re-emergence in Bangladesh in 2006 illustrates the great need for health care investment in this country.  Unfortunately, typhoid remains endemic in Bangladesh as commercially available typhoid vaccines cost roughly $30 and are not effective in children less than two years of age. 

Every time I walk around the streets of Dhaka I see a great need for the services that BERDO provides.  On my first day of work, BERDO’s executive director, Saidul Huq, told me what it was like to go to school without Braille books or a Braille library to assist him with his studies.  His unwavering resolve shines through as he describes his decision to found BERDO to provide disabled people with education, access to medical facilities and employment opportunities.  His passion is apparent as he explains the need for BERDO’s talking library and the residential school for children who are visually impaired.

Braille Reading at BERDO's Dhaka Center

A Braille Lesson at BERDO's Dhaka Center

 

BERDO also provides computer training using talking software, free medical services that allow clients to access an M.B.B.S. doctor and eye specialist, and community-based rehabilitation programs.  Additionally, the staff at BERDO works with governmental and business institutions to find appropriate employment opportunities for its clients.  BERDO’s spirit of advocacy is manifested in its work to promote human rights of persons with disabilities in Bangladesh in partnership with the Center for Disability in Development. 

Needless to say, I have my work cut out for me but am proud to be working for BERDO this summer and learning from all of the new experiences around me.

I just returned from Mexico where I was working on an economic development project in an isolated area of Baja California with roughly 100 residents.  In contrast, I am now preparing to travel to Dhaka, Bangladesh where there are over seven million inhabitants!  Bangladesh, with a population density of 1090 person per square kilometer, is considered by many to be the mostly densely populated country in the world. 

I will be working with an organization called the Blind Education and Rehabilitation Development Organization (BERDO) that empowers people with disabilities through income generation, leadership development, education and training.  I was drawn to this fellowship because of the overwhelming need for services for people with disabilities in Bangladesh.  I have experience advocating for legislation such as the Americans with Disabilities Amendments Act but am excited to learn about disability advocacy on a completely different level in Bangladesh. 

To prepare for my trip, I took a class at the Islamic Center of San Diego and have been reading Brick Lane.  I am not sure what will unfold for my workplan, but I am ready to jump into a new experience.  In terms of projects, I hope to work with BERDO’s unique microfinance program that pairs members of the disability community with those from the non-disabled community to create awareness while working to alleviate poverty. 

Now for a long flight…