Bakala's Story

Bakala Dfabachew has been an active member of the Survivor program of Landmine Survivors Network Ethiopia for a year and 5 months to date. Last week, I accompanied Outreach Worker Asamnew Negash on his monthly monitoring and evaluation visit to check on Bakala and his family.

Gangrene, the infamous infection that conjures up images of horrendous injuries suffered in epic conflicts like the American Civil War, caused the loss of his right leg. Two years ago he was employed by the telecommunications companies, clearing brush and trees outside of the city limits for the installation of new power lines. Something went wrong while he was working, a pole fell towards him and in the process of attempting to escape further injury, the axe he was using to clear trees fell square on his foot, slicing deep into the flesh and down to the bone.

Bakala gazes off into the distance while evoking the memories of his injury and his long road to recovery.

Hospitalization, Hope Arrives

Bakala was immediately hospitalized, but within one month the infection had spread and the hospital proceeded to press for an amputation below the knee. The operation was a success, but Bakala's once active life was now severely curtailed. His employment with the telecom company ended and none of his former colleagues visited him at the hospital. Worse, he soon found out that the company refused to pay the salary they owed him at the time of injury and any further medical or disability expenses.

Bakala reflects upon his former situation, "I was hopeless at the time of the injury and in the hospital I lost even more hope. The injury hurt my mind strongly." During hospitalization, a much-needed respite from the complex waves of physical and emotional pain arrived in the form of an Outreach Worker from LSN, Rahel Abebaw. The frequent visits and peer support that Rahel provided helped to instill new determination in Bakala and a strong will to survive.

Bakala and Asamnew celebrate another productive Outreach Worker-Survivor.

LSN Steps In

After Rahel's crucial support and psychological assistance paved the way for Bakala's full recovery, he became a full-fledged Survivor program participant and has benefited immensely from the Network's comprehensive assistance program. LSN has provided economic assistance in the form of a grant for the renovation of a room attached to his house where Bakala and his wife reside. Also, the Network provided a link and referral contact with the local Red Cross headquarters, where Bakala was able to acquire his second prosthesis, which has proved much more comfortable and flexible than his first one was, and he is now able to conduct farming activities on the 2 small plots of land he shares with his father on the outskirts of the city.

The fruits of economic assistance: the house/room renovation paid for with collaboration from LSN Ethiopia.

Based on all this and the continued support/visits from Asamnew, Bakala states "LSN intervened at the right moment, when I was losing hope. All LSN programs and benefits are deeply rooted in my heart and in my mind and in the heart of my family. My family truly loves LSN for all the hope and opportunities they have provided us."

New hope for the future: Bakala and his wife caring for one of their grandchildren.

Lingering Health Issues and an Uncertain Future

Despite the substantial progress made by Bakala, lingering health issues remain, especially in the form of a continuing struggle with rising blood-sugar levels. Following the injury and subsequent surgery, Bakala's blood-sugar levels peaked near 300, a dangerous precedent. Bakala hopes to acquire a 400 birr ($40) machine that regulates and monitors the levels, but the cost associated make it a difficult purchase for a man whose main household income at the moment is the $20 a month pension that comes from his previous employment/retirement with the police force.

In addition to his blood sugar complications, the main challenge facing Bakala is economic. With 7 children and two grandchildren under one roof and rising prices across all food and fuel sectors of the Ethiopian economy, life has become increasingly difficult.

Legal battles with his former employer are also on the horizon as Bakala seeks a resolution that will grant him the basic medical and rehabilitative costs owed him by the Telecom Company.

Despite seemingly insurmountable odds, it is clear that Bakala's life has been deeply transformed through his participation with Landmine Survivors Network Ethiopia. The generous gratitude he displays towards the Network and their efforts is a testament to the impressive Survivor support and assistance operations that they have worked so hard to establish. On a personal note, the hospitality and kindness his family showed me was deeply moving and I hope to pay them one more visit before my departure in 10 days time.

Posing with the remarkable Bakala and his beautiful family.

Here is an excerpt from the book "Ending Hunger: An Idea whose Time Has Come," which has been lying around my house begging for a thorough review of its most beautiful pictures. Some days I peruse it before dinner time, while we wait patiently for another round of injeera and wot (meat sauce) to hit the table.

This excerpt is an example of the viewpoint that population control is a tool of racism and repression. Several other viewpoints are addressed in other sections of the book. The book, published in the early 80s, is a collaborative project of The Hunger Project>>>> www.thp.org

"Maaza Bekele, former head of Ethiopian social services, believes that Western planners--who have little empathy for those whose lives they would alter--want to impose upon Africa a development experience that differs greatly from that of the West. Many developing world leaders share this view.

Bekele's words:

The prophets of doom contend that both the structure and the consequent potential size of the African population...is a threat to general world prosperity and a deterrent to economic development in African countries...

This is a one-dimensional approach...

In Africa we cannot afford to look upon our growing population as a problem. We have to face up to the challenge of engaging our young, expectant peoples in the struggle to achieve the most rapid development possible...

It seems almost sinister that there is so much money available to CONTROL life and hardly any to PROMOTE IT.

It also seems unrealistic to expect that poverty-stricken, hard-working African mothers--many close to death before the age of 35--can be expected to limit the number of their children when only 1 out of 3 or 4 will survive. The onus is on the "controllers" to demonstrate to these women that 3 out of 4 of their children WILL survive. They cannot run the risk that their major creative contribution to humanity (given that the rest of their existence is almost pure drudgery), will be denied them. In each woman is the grain of hope that life for her offspring will be better than hers.

Besides, in African society, procreation and the loving, tender rearing of children is one of society's most important goals. Children are not a burden, they are an asset in the average farm family."

This piece by Bekele appeared in the UNESCO Courier, under the title "False Prophets of Doom," in the year 1974. It clearly illustrates an interesting perspective on the whole overpopulation debate. That debate is alive and well here in Ethiopia, which has long been considered to be a potential flash point for proponents of overpopulation. Bekele's words certainly provide the international community with a

Locally, a recent visit to one of the Survivors drove home the importance of this discussion. This particular Survivor is currently taking care of 7 children and two grandchildren, placing an immense burden on his already complicated financial situation. Tomorrow I will update with a more personal account of that particular Survivor's story.

Happy Ethiopian New Year to all! We celebrated the arrival of the Ethiopian New Year this past Thursday, as we are in 2001 here. Ethiopia is on a different calendar and different time as well (always 6 hours behind or before European or Western concept of time). For example 1 o-clock is actually 7pm or 7am. It is a bit confusing at first, but eventually you get used to it. Another testament to Ethiopia's independent ways and unique cultural standing in the global community of nations.

Saludos cordiales.

The Ethiopian runners were a sight to see in Beijing if you were not too busy watching The Redeem Team (US basketball), Mr. Phelps or those impressive opening and closing ceremonies. They simply dominated the long distance events, winning a total of 7 medals, 4 golds. Tiruneshi Dibaba powered her way to sensational victories in the 10,000 meters and the 5,000 meters while on the men's side Kenenisa Bekele swiftly racked up the gold in the same events.

Here at the office all work stopped as the runners lined up to the blocks and words of encouragement and exasperation in Amharic and English bounced to and fro. As the bell sounded the signal of the last lap shouts of joy and excitement filled the air to be met with supreme satisfaction as Dibaba and Bekele pulled away from the pack in each race.

Needless to say, these victories mean a great deal for Ethiopia, a country that, like Kenya, has constructed a powerhouse distance running team that virtually ensures a golden haul from each Olympic Games. An impressive feat for a country with limited financial resources. To praise these feats, a plethora of songs and videos have been created over the years by some of Ethiopia's biggest names in the entertainment industry that further the idolization process of these amazing athletes and iconic figures.

Ethiopia's contribution to elevating African athletics to higher levels is also quite significant; especially at the 1960 Rome Games where the unsung and unheralded Abebe Bekila kicked off his shoes that did not fit comfortably enough and proceeded to win the gold in the men's marathon. An epic event that today still commands supreme respect among all Ethiopians, young and old, and also marked the first gold for a black African (gold medals had been won by white athletes from South Africa for some time prior to this landmark event).

Now that the official Games have finished, the Paralympics begin and we certainly hope to catch some of that action from the office because it is far more important in terms of reflecting the Survivor philosophy. In addition, sports activities have played a huge part in the development of the Network here in Ethiopia. Sitting in front of me I have the Sports Activities of the Network (2005-08)document that provides an extensive overview of the major events that have been organized to date. A short list includes:

The 2005 and 2006 Addis Ababa Sport Competition for People with Disabilities

The 2008 Addis Ababa Millennium (According to the Ethiopian calendar we are on year 2000 now, and it will be 2001 on September 1st!) Sport Competition for People with Disabilities

Participation in the All-Ethiopian Games

Participation in the 50th Anniversary of the Confederation of African Football

and last, but certainly not least, a Survivors-led Martial Arts Club

Indeed, posters of Dereje Getaneh, a landmine Survivor performing a high tae kwon do kick with the slogan: "Given the opportunity, we will be successfu!" decorate various offices here. Dereje lost both his hands when he picked up an Unexploded Ordinance (UXO) out of a nearby creek bed when he was 10 years old.

Thus, sports offer an activity that contains elements of health and rehabilitation first and foremost, but also a strong dose of social empowerment and to some extent, economic opportunities. These kinds of activities reflect the positive transformation that LSN advocates as the Survivors lift themselves up from victims to Survivors and on to Citizen and Community Leaders.

If you get the chance to take in some Paralympics events, take a minute or two to observe humanity at its finest. We will be cheering on all the athletes and Survivors from Ethiopia.

Saludos cordiales desde Addis Ababa.

One other thing before leaving the office:

Today we were able to download the youtube replay of Jerry White, one of the founders of Survivor Corps, and his appearance on Good Morning America this week. Excellent clip. The staff here in the office have been raving about it and we hope to show everyone here by next week. Very uplifting and powerful message from Mr. White.

Check it out here and then spread the good word about the excellent work that Survivor Corps/Landmine Survivors Network are doing at home and abroad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtsXmdwrqeA

Last week saw the announcement of some unfortunate news regarding the geopolitical hotspot that is the border between Ethiopia and Eritrea. The United Nations peacekeeping force, UNMEE (UN Mission in Ethiopia and Eritrea)has been present in the region since July of 2000, after the June 2000 cessation of hostilities that ended the conflict. This will most likely leave a significant peace force vacuum in the region, further raising tensions.

A Reuters update from last week describes the action in more detail:

"The U.N. Security Council voted on Wednesday to disband its peacekeeping mission to the volatile border between Eritrea and Ethiopia after Eritrea forced out most of the U.N. troops. The mandate for the 1,700-strong force expires on Thursday. The council unanimously approved a resolution drafted by Belgium that calls for the mission to be terminated and all peacekeeping personnel to be withdrawn."

http://africa.reuters.com/wire/news/usnN30483531.html

This is problematic for several reasons. Surprisingly, Ethiopia and Eritrea possess Africa's two largest armies.

What does all this mean for LSN Ethiopia? The possibility of renewed conflict raises the specter of a potential marked increase in conflict survivors. A fairly obvious but ominous equation. As Ethiopia struggles to meet the basic needs (food, water, shelter) of large sectors of its population (demographics and resources will be the topic of next week's post), any kind of war footing that either country takes could have drastic consequences for the general population. Additionally, LSN Ethiopia has come to see veterans of combat as a crucial Survivor group. Many injured and disabled veterans fell through the cracks in the system after serving their country courageously. LSN hopes to expand its services to these groups and also one day expand into the areas directly affected by the border tensions. These areas are heavily mined and pose huge logistical problems for the people inhabiting both sides of the border area.

Just as back in the United States there is a long history of Vietnam Veterans, Gulf war veterans and now current Iraq and Afghanistan, victims coming home with major psychological and physical impediments to their health, the same process continues to take place here in Ethiopia.

Hopefully, further peacebuildings steps will be implemented in the wake of the UN withdrawal but international experts are skeptical.

Turning away from conflict and towards peace, we just finished watching the opening ceremony of the Olympics here at the office. Beijing put on quite a show, very impressive. For me, nothing but respect for China right now and I hope the games go smoothly. All of Ethiopia will be watching and hoping for more gold medals in the long distance running events.

For more info on the conflict and tensions between Ethiopia and Eritrea, check out this International Crisis Group report:

http://www.crisisgroup.org/home/index.cfm?id=5490&CFID=49051448&CFTOKEN=84181645

Next week: more on Ethiopia's struggle balancing demographics and resources.

Sunday, 9:30am

The rains have cleared for the morning, small flocks of urban sheep scurry about and the churchgoers hustle along the main streets of Addis Ababa as the warmth of sunshine spreads across the valley floor. We are in transit, in one of the numerous blue and white "contract" taxis that provide the more specific, traditional and lucrative A to B service.

As we lurch along a main artery road, somewhere in the western section of the sprawling urban mass, the driver and my colleagues from the Landmine Survivor Network stop at a shoe shine post and then a bus stop, asking for the precise location of this sub-city's biannual Survivor Association meeting. After a few misses we find a hit and follow another pack of urban sheep up an ally until we approach the entrance gate and high walls of an elementary school.

Soon we enter a dark and run down classroom of the dilapidated building. Inside, up to 40 Survivors and Persons with Disability (PWD) are in deep discussions about the current state of the organization, their relationship with the Network and the challenging nature of their relationship with the city and the state. LSN helped establish the group through its social support program over 3 years ago and now the total membership has expanded to include over 80 Survivors.

Throughout the duration of the function, appreciation for LSN's efforts is expressed, even when the more vocal members venture to offer up constructive criticism or alternative ideas.

On several occasions the rising cost of life was mentioned as an increasingly concerning development for many, especially those subsisting on limited budgets. They hope to form small business opportunities for members and to promote increase awareness of disability rights in the community.

Criticisms of the city and the state are quite harsh, with enough closed fists and flying hands to remind me of Argentine bus drivers expressing their views to the taxi drivers during rush hour in Buenos Aires. Much of this centers on promises that have yet to be fulfilled like the City's plan to offer up positions for PWDs on the City Council and the Government's stalling on the ratification of the United Nations Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities. A lack of enforcement mechanisms has been one of the main obstacles to the laws that do exist and the groups hope to push for major change in this area as well.

After sharing another round of injeera and wat for lunch with many of the survivors, I wash my hands and ponder the messages and objectives of The Advocacy Project and Survivor Corps and how they come together at points like this. They both push for the construction of mechanisms that allow for the voiceless to have a voice, and today the sights and sounds of those voices of indignation, pressing for more rights, pressing for justice, for accessibility, continue to flash before my eyes and ring in my ears. These voices of indignation will continue to take the initiative and create more opportunities for enhanced awareness.

For more information on the food security and inflation issues facing Ethiopia's economy, check out the following articles

The Economist.com. Ethiopia: Will it ever be able to stave off starvation?
http://www.economist.com/world/africa/displaystory.cfm?story_id=11549764

IRIN Africa. Ethiopia: Lifting of grain tax may ease food burden for urban poor. http://www.irinnews.org/report.aspx?ReportID=77383

My apologies for not embedding the links in text, I seem to have lost those capabilities due to our internet connectivity issues here at the office. That also explains the lack of pictures up to this point, an unfortunate situation which we hope to remedy over the next couple of weeks.

Often, I am asked by Ethiopians why I came here, what is the purpose of my visit. This was especially the case over the first week, but each time I meet a new person, this question usually comes up, as one would expect in any place.

My response usually mixes a combination of the desire to see and feel Africa with a need to acquire more first hand knowledge about the landmine crisis on the continent and how conflict survivors are playing a role in raising awareness about the issue. In that sense, I then move into a brief foray on how fortunate I am to have been chosen for a fellowship/internship in Ethiopia, which in many ways manifests the true spirit of Africa (the slogan for Ethiopian Airlines).

On many occasions I am reminded of Paulo Freire's (the great Brazilian pedagogue/educator/professor)words. In his magnificent book, Letters to Guinea-Bissau, (I was fortunate to pick up the Spanish version at the book fair in Buenos Aires a few months ago) he states his feelings upon arriving in Africa for the first time by referring to it as a return to Africa, not a simple tourist visit or vacation, but a much deeper anthropological and essential human experience. This concept of returning to Africa was important in framing my preparations as I transitioned from Buenos Aires to Addis Ababa. For those who think often of the scientific and spiritual implications of where we as a species come from, where our history first developed, this is the place. So far, it has been one of the most enriching experiences of my life, and it's only been two weeks! I tell people all the time, if you want to feel history, this is the place. History is etched on the faces of the ancients here, from the priests that rule the Ethiopan Orthodox Church, to the humble beggars and streetside vendors, hawking their wares on every street corner and crevice.

Getting back to the landmine issue, a section of Philip C. Winslow's powerful book, Sowing the Dragon's Teeth: Landmines and the Global Legacy of War, brought the tragic impact of these remnants of war to light. Here, a doctor on the front lines of a landmine affected country discusses the emotional struggles involved with treating such injuries: "When we got new patients, my hope was always for gunshot or shrapnel, or other 'normal' war injuries, but not mine injuries, because they are the worst you can imagine. And if they were mine injuries, I hoped: please God, let it be an adult with only one leg blown off, not two legs and hands and eyes. And please God, no children coming from the fields. With ordinary war wounds, I often felt sad or furious. With children without legs, hands, and eyes, I felt not sad but sick (p 139)." Originally quoted in International Committee of the Red Cross report, Landmines Must Be Stopped (Geneva, 1995):7.

The more I ponder that quote and the more I see the impact that LSN Ethiopia's work has had on a vast persons with disabilities population, the more I am convinced of the increasing role that non-governmental organizations and networks will play in fostering a greater good and a deeper understanding of words like conflict, survivor and hope. In that respect, I am working towards a deeper, more complex answer to my own Big Why Questions.

The rain clouds have arrived over the city, unleashing their daily delivery of moisture and giving more life to the highlands. Which means it is time to call it a day and take the blue donkeys home. Unfortunately, they are not real donkeys, but the minivan taxis that carry so much of the mass transit load here. There are thousands of them scurrying across the city, like ants marching along their set paths, back to the hill.

We zoom through Addis Ababa in the Network's Landcruiser, built for battle with the difficult road conditions. As we sweep past the sprawling American Embassy--another foreign outpost marked by a sprawling compound secluded behind massive walls, cameras at every right angle and a small army of guards-- a dizzying array of people hawking goods and pedestrians on the move signals the entrance to a densely populated neighborhood. The vehicle lurches along the fairly well paved road as we descend down a steep hill.

Eucalyptus trees line the roadside in various sizes, from youthful mini-trees to gigantic adults, reaching for the sky. The vehicle comes to a stop and we move out on foot, due to the maze-like makeup of the neighborhood streets and the difficult inclines and declines for driving. After walking a few hundred meters we approach a makeshift aluminum gate that leads inside to a house and yard.

Inside the house we find the survivor, a young man with wide eyes and a humble, yet energetic demeanor. He sits in his chair, watching an American martial arts movie that looks fit for long bus rides on Bolivian and Peruvian mountain roads. As the conversation begins between the outreach worker and the survivor, I listen and observe intently, despite my clear limitations with Amharic. As lulls in the conversation take root, I begin to ask questions, which are then translated by Mr. Amanyehun, the Communications Assistant.

The survivor lost the use of his lower body when a random shooting occurred at his high school. The bullet penetrated deeply and lodged in his spine where it remains today. The Landmine Survivors Network Ethiopia has helped him recover by providing the crucial element of peer support. Through his involvement with LSN activities, this survivor detailed the change in his life, the change in his perspective and positive energy. As he spoke of these changes, one could observe the tears in his eyes.

Despite all of this support, major medical obstacles remain as the bullet continues its slow, gradual and excruciating advance. He explains that eventually it will near his lungs and impede his breathing, complicating his health even more. A surgical operation followed by medicine could change everything and reverse his disability, but this could only be performed in South Africa or the United States and Europe. Most embassies do not facilitate medical visas for the average Ethiopian citizen, even if they could come up with the large amount of financial capital needed for such operations. In the meantime this survivor will continue to take advantage of the LSN network and grow towards the ultimate goal, to become an advocate and a leader in his own community, to know his disability rights and press for more.

Clearly, the survivor field visits are one of the most essential elements of the Network's programs and more of these stories will be posted in the future. Until then,

Salem from Addis Ababa....

This summer marks the first time that The Advocacy Project (AP) office in Washington, D.C. has collaborated with the Landmine Survivors Network/Survivor Corps office to send AP peace fellows into seven countries where the Network is active: Jordan, El Salvador, Colombia, Uganda, Vietnam, Bosnia and of course here in Ethiopia. It is truly a privilege to be a part of such a collaborative global peace and advocacy effort.

There are three main focus areas of the LSN Addis Ababa office:

1. Health, especially focused on ensuring access to medical care and physical rehabilitations services.

2. Economic Opportunity, with an emhasis on empowering the survivors through vocational trainings and access to microfinance funds for small businesses and projects. This sector is crucial as a lack of job opportunities in a country with a high unemployment rate complicate matters signficantly.

3. Social Empowerement, focusing on social therapy, social activities and networking, and community building.

Most of this work occurrs within the Addis Ababa area, with 10 "sub-cities" around the urban core making up the target groups. Eventually, I will be accompanying the outreach workers when they venture out into the sub-cities to visit the survivors in their homes and communities. That will no doubt put a deeper perspective on the importance of the Network's work.

The actual landmine situation in the country is complex, but the vast majority of mines in the ground are along the Temporary Security Zone (TSZ), in the regions of Tigray and Afar, where the conflict with Eritrea (1998-2000) wreaked havoc on the border regions and the economies of both nations. There are also significant mined zones in Somali, the region that borders Somalia.

In terms of persons living with disability, the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC) estimates there are approximately 380,000 people with disabilities in need of physical rehabilitation; with 25,000 of these being conflict victims (ICRC Annual Report, 2006).

Clearly, in a country that has faced many years of drought, famine and development challenges, providing the necessary resources for landmine victim assistance remains problematic. However, we must consider that the recent scandals over the conditions of returned soldiers in the United States at the Walter Reed hospital, speak loudly about the difficulties that rich countries face in the area of victim assistance as well. It's important to keep that in perspective when comparing and contrasting the different global contexts of victim assistance and conflict survivors.

Thanks to the Landmine Monitor Report 2007 for excellent research on the landmine status in all affected countries and Ethiopia in particular.

For more on Survivor Corps and their excellent programs/projects, click here.

Hello from Addis Ababa,

This would be the long awaited introductory post from Addis Ababa. After some craziness and some complications during the journey from Buenos Aires to Frankfurt to Khartoum and then here to Addis, things have finally started to settle down. Plus, I was able to pick up my missing bag at the airport today. Inside was the most crucial of all crucial tools, the laptop charger, so I am feeling good about having that baby back in my life. It's the little things in life like chargers that are so essential in today's world sometimes.

As for Addis, after arrival on Monday I was greeted at the airport by Landmine Survivors Network (LSN) staff and whisked away to the Ras Hotel where I was greeted by a photo of Nelson Mandela in the lobby. Apparently he spent a great deal of time here in Ethiopia during his years in exile. I will have to research more about that later. So much amazing history and culture to catch up on here. I'm thousands of years behind schedule!

After an initial day of substantial rest on Tuesday, I received a warm welcome from the office yesterday (wed.). We tossed around some ideas and the areas where I hope to be able to collaborate. The offices are quite professional and all of the staff equally professional and excited to host an intern from far away lands. We will be working on the localization process as the various Landmine Survivors country networks move toward higher levels of financially independence from the Washington head office. I will be working with them on setting up an independent web page, improving and producing documents that could be of value for potential donors, doing a techonology evaluation of the offices and hopefully joining the outreach workers on their counseling and peer support visits to landmine survivors throughout Addis.

Yesterday I left the Ras and headed deep into the mountains and outskirts of Addis, which is no small thing considering how sprawling and vast the city is. Upon arrival at the house of the brother of one of the LSN staff members, I was greeted by many children in the road and shouts of "FARANJI, faranj," which means foreigner or white person in Amharic. The household was quite entertained with my attempts at learning the basics of Amharic, attempts which will hopefully bear fruit before too long...it is so different from espanol y portugues and I am kicking myself for not having studied more prior to arrival.

The Pen Moment
I will close this initial post with a funny story from the Frankfurt airport. After thinking that I had lost my pen after going through the first round of security (there are two rounds in Frankfurt's cavernous terminals), I went into a smart looking bookstore where I noticed some pens loosely organized in an open pen box near the cash register. After reviewing the pens and the pieces of paper attached to them which I figured to be potential price tags, I decided to ask the cashier. In the process I made some small conversation with a woman who was waiting in line and just so happens that she was headed to Colorado. At that moment she was excited to be talking to a native Coloradoan. Then the unthinkable happened. I asked the cashier how much the pens were, pointing to them as we both walked toward the box to review the potential price. She took one look at them and said 75. I said "Wow, 75 cents, that's great." As soon as I uttered the word cents I knew I was in trouble....Her response was: "No sir, this pen is 75 euros!" In that moment I let out a deep burst of laughter (what we call a carcajada en espanol) that filled the bookstore and caused sophisticated world travelers to look up from their books/newspapers. After my laughter faded, she added "Sir, this is top German quality." I kept thinking to myself...silly American, you continue to underestimate the power of the euro. Needless to say the lady who had been chatting with me just kind of turned red and then wanted nothing to do with me in conversational terms. It was time to move on deeper in the terminal to continue enjoying that moment.

Luckily, the Ethopian currency, the birr, is not as powerful, but of course inflation and the rising cost of food stuffs have created massive complications here for the average Ethiopian. More on that in the next post.

As I sit here in front of my computer, attempting to extract production in the form of new chapters for my thesis, I find it hard to believe that I was sitting in DC last week, surrounded by the amazing energy of the other fellows and the Advocacy for Peace staff. What a whirlwind tour it was. It was definitely worth the cost and the energy spent to get there, that long flight from Buenos Aires to the States definitely puts a new twist on the term red-eye flight. I'm pretty sure my eyeballs looked like the Red Line on the Metro after my arrival at Dulles, but fortunately I had a few days to recover prior to the start of training.

Being back in the States is always a bit strange these days. Over the last 4 years I have only been stateside for flickering moments, strange one week forays into the nation of my birth. During these moments, and last week was no exception, I am consumed with a roller coaster ride of emotions and deep, inner questions. Sometimes it feels great and I feel like I want to be back, but most of the time I realize that the global travel/study/work bug that has bitten me and caused my wandering ways, will most likely continue to call the shots.

Perhaps the most intriguing part of the visit was the Survivor Corps training. Through that training I realized how important this opportunity really is and now have a better idea of what I hope to accomplish upon arriving in Ethiopia next month. The training was professional, informative and effective and it was certainly an honor and a privilege to share that space with the six other Advocacy for Peace/Survivor Corps (formerly Landmine Survivors Network) fellows. They will be performing similar advocacy/information technology /social justice support roles in Uganda, El Salvador, Colombia, Bosnia, Jordan and Vietnam. Since this is landmark partnership between AP and Survivor Corps we all realize how much potential is there to take some positive steps toward the deepening of this partnership. It is a challenge that we all look forward to.

Containing my excitement as the departure dates get closer will be difficult, but for now the focus must remain on the rest of my time here in Argentina and the pending thesis chapters that are under construction. For my next post I hope to have a better update on thesis work and also detail how I came to be interested in the land mine situation in Africa. It's good to be back here in Argentina, while I continue to reflect on DC and begin to dream more frequently of what lies ahead in Ethiopia.

Want to know more?

http://www.ted.com/index.php/talks/view/id/185

Check out this video link to the ted.com site, a collection of the major thinkers and global movers who are working for positive change. There is an excellent collection of videos on Africa and this video focuses on the work of Eleni Gabre-Madhin, a former World Bank researcher who has returned home to Ethiopia to build a commodities market that will increase the efficiency of local farmers and enhance food supply sustainability, a major challenge facing the country.

http://www.ted.com/talks/view/id/156

Another excellent video from TED, this is a moving story of how Patrick Awuah used his Swarthmore education to go on to work at Microsoft before eventually returning home to Ghana to found a liberal arts university that works to create strong leaders for Africa.

Quick intro post here to set up the blog....

After a quick weekend of catching up with old friends and getting adjusted to life back in the States, the Advocacy for Peace training is set to start up in under a couple of hours here on Monday morning.

This post will be limited to a few lines, just to get things warmed up and test the new blogging format.

From there, there will be weekly updates, starting with post-training thoughts before catching Saturday's long haul flight back to Buenos Aires.

Ethiopian food for lunch yesterday....Awesome!